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 Forces-of-Nature » Personal Diaries » Surfing - Llangenith

April so far in the Forces-of-Nature Diaries
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Owner: zebedee23
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Member#: 488
Location:
Registered: 30-12-2003
Diary Entries: 3

 27th June 2004
Surfing: Llangenith
Wind Direction: SSW
Wind Stength: 15
Surf / Sea State: short period swell
Air Temperature: warm
Sea Temperature: ok
Weather: o'cast
Max Speed:
Distance Covered:

I reckon it was 2-3 foot on sets but only 6 or 7 seconds wave period and on my mini-mal with no upper body fitness (last time out was new years day) I was paddling hard just to go backwards.

Got out back once but was very hard choosing waves because they came at you with such frequency and in the end one broke early and pitched me sideways, brought be in about 2 or 3m before releasing me and then I was in the impact zone again! d'oh. Got three rides, all from pretty late take-offs but just as it seemed to be coming together, round about 3:30, it really started dying off and became whitewater hell. Increased resolve to get out there as much as possible though - hopefully starting from next weekend!
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